A Winter Weekend Getaway in Aspen
As I have spent most of my life in Vancouver, I never really traveled for ski vacations, given that Whistler Blackcomb, one of the largest ski resorts in North America, is a short drive away. Recently though, I have discovered the joy of exploring new terrain and new mountain towns. My new fave? Aspen! We just got back from spending three nights there and I finally understand what all the Aspen hype is about. When people refer to Aspen they are typically referring to Aspen/Snowmass, which comprises four mountains and two ski towns. Not only is there a great variety of skiing across the four mountains, the town of Aspen (we didn’t make it to Snowmass) is much more cosmopolitan than your typical ski town, with incredible restaurants, a large number of luxury and contemporary retail stores, art galleries, coffee shops and more. Aspen is a place where both skiers and non-skiers will have plenty to do.
Where to Stay
The Little Nell
The Little Nell is Aspens’s only 5-star, 5-diamond, ski-in/ski-out hotel. The location is incredible and so is the service. We loved everything about this place including the outdoor hot tub. The hotel has two restaurants, Element 47 and Ajax Tavern. The burger and truffle fries at Ajax were amongst the best we’ve had.
We haven’t stayed at Hotel Jerome yet, but plan to on a future visit. What we have experienced of Jerome is the vibe of its three bars, which are some of Aspen’s best. Bad Harriet is named after the original developer, Jerome Wheeler’s wife and offers innovative cocktails as well as a multi-course collection of cocktails dubbed “The Soiree”. J-Bar is a high-end saloon serving upscale pub fare. We spent most of our time at the Living Room, which was always comfortable yet buzzing and had great cocktails and small bites.
On this trip we stayed at The W, which has a fabulous location (right across the street from the Little Nell). The rooms were clean and well-sized and not as dark and moody as W rooms often are. Our only complaints about the hotel were that the outdoor hot tub had zero vibe and the bar/restaurant didn’t have much atmosphere. The après ski DJ though was great!
Where to Eat - Lunch
Cloud Nine
If you ski Aspen Highlands, you need to experience Cloud Nine at least once. Cloud Nine is the cutest little Swiss bistro on the top of Highlands Mountain. If you just want to eat, go for an early seating (they open at 11:30 am). If you want to experience the infamous champagne spray that Cloud Nine is famous for, book a later seating and stay past 3pm.
Lunch at Cloud Nine is divine. This alpine bistro is known for its fondue and raclette but everything on the menu was incredible. We ordered the charcuterie and bolognese and one of our friends had the sea bass. Like everyone else in the restaurant, we drank champagne. Speaking of champagne….. Our server warned us that at 3pm we should be prepared to get wet. We saw diners around us asking for plastic bags to protect their ski jackets–so we followed suit. And are we ever grateful we did! At 3pm, the DJ turned up the music, and everyone was dancing on their chairs. Hundreds of bottles of champagne were sprayed (btw, the cheapest on the menu is $200!). Probably the most fun I have ever had on a ski hill! Skiing down soaking wet and smelling of champagne was a different story, but well worth it.
Keeping with the fondue theme, French Alpine Bistro was probably our favorite place for lunch when we weren’t skiing. We had the flavors of the world salad, the bistro bowl and of course their famous cheese fondue with crispy bread, green apples and roasted broccoli & cauliflower. The restaurant has the cutest atmosphere, with worn wood tables, beautiful candles in glass hurricanes, and sheepskins thrown over the chairs.
Where to Eat - Dinner
Cache Cache
One of the best meals we had in Aspen was at Cache Cache. Although it’s known for its steak, we loved the house made pastas including the wagyu beef cheek pappardelle and the cacio e pepe. The smoked Scottish salmon appetizer was also a favourite.
The legendary Caribou Club is a member’s only club with indulgent food, an impressive wine list and a fun bar/lounge to enjoy after dinner. We were lucky enough to know a member, so had the opportunity to experience the incredible cuisine at this Aspen institution. I’m still dreaming about the garlic cheese bread and the Hamachi bombs were one of the most creative (and delicious) sashimi dishes we’ve ever come across. After dinner the lively lounge and bar is the place to be.
Like its sister restaurants in LA, New York and Las Vegas, Catch Steak Aspen has a buzzy atmosphere and the food doesn’t disappoint either. The king salmon rice cake is a Catch classic and we also loved the burrata with black truffle honey. For main courses, the Cowgirl Ribeye and Dover Sole were delish.
We are fans of sister restaurant Bonito in St. Barth’s so it's no surprise that we love Betula. The chic laid-back vibe, incredible cocktails and the music make it one of our favorite spots for dinner or at least a pre-dinner drink.
Things to do
Of course the majority of people that flock to Aspen go there to ski; however, if you’re not the skiing type and are waiting around for après, there are plenty of cute shops in the village to keep you occupied. In Aspen you’ll find outposts of many of the world’s best designer shops–Dior, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Moncler, Brunello Cucinelli to name a few. There are also a number of cute, less expensive options such as Frame and one of our favourites, a store called Wyld Blue which also has locations in Montauk and Manhattan. Wyld Blue was founded by former fashion stylist Sasha Benz and houses a well curated selection of women’s fashion and select housewares.
For cowboy hats, Kemo Sabe is the place to go. Be prepared to spend big bucks and wait for a long time, but at Kemo Sabe you will walk away with a one-of-a-king masterpiece to be treasured forever. Kemo Sabe also sells other Western-inspired goods including boots, belts, belt buckles and jewelry.
Last but not least, if you like to ski, Aspen is paradise. One ski pass gets you access to all four mountains in the Aspen/Snowmass resort area, namely Aspen Mountain (sometimes called Ajax), Aspen Highlands, Buttermilk and Snowmass. With the drier Colorado climate (at least drier than what I’m used to here in British Columbia), the snow seemed fluffier and easier to ski. There is also a much greater chance of sunshine, which always makes for a great ski day.
There is so much to see, do and taste in Aspen that we could have easily spent a week rather than just three nights there. I guess this means we'll be back, as there is so much more yet to explore!